Welcome to your new family member. To help your kitten settle in quickly I have put together some information that I hope will help.
You will need to gather together the following: Water bowl Food bowl Food Litter tray and shovel Comfortable blanket or bed Carry: basket, cage, hotel etc Toys
On arrival at their new home Remember that the kittens have been in a safe environment since they were born. They are used to other animals and house hold noises but they have been slowly introduced. They play rough and tumble with their uncle Mac but are cautious when coming into contact with older cats, dogs and children. Children should be supervised when playing with small kittens and soon learn to be kind and gentle so they become firm friends.
Keep them safe in their carrier to begin with and when you let them out supervise them when other animals are there.
Leave their carrier around for a while so they enjoy jumping in and out which will help them when you have to transport them. They are already used to jumping up and down, arching their backs, hissing and spitting when playing with their brothers and sisters and they will do this with their new friends too. You can help them by being there for them and once they feel safe they will stop. Make sure their litter tray is at hand as their nervousness may cause accidents. They may hide so tempt them out with a “mouse” like toy on a string this is irresistible, they also love little balls of paper. They may also get under foot, in doorways and climb into drawers, washing machines etc. so take care in these areas.
Food and water I have tried to make our kittens as adaptable as possible and so they are used to all kinds of dishes but “china” are best as they are easy to clean and slip less than plastic.
They have had a variety of foods and enjoy most dry kitten foods such as Royal Canin, Whiskas, Sainsbury's, James Wellbeloved etc. Dry foods are best as they contain all the nutrients your kitten needs and also helps to keep their teeth healthy. The amount required each day is written on the packet. If you wish to use the wet kitten food Whiskas and Pets at Home are their favourites, but I only use wet food as a treat. If you are concerned about their diet your vet will be pleased to advise you. Because their main diet is dry food it is essential that they have water and plenty of it preferably in a bowl that cannot be knocked over when they play. If you wish to give them milk it is important that you give them special kitten milk but again I only use this as a treat as there is very little nourishment in it.
Special Treats Treats are fun. They love cooked chicken (no bones) and frozen prawns (you will enjoy watching them play “catch”). You can give them other treats, but be careful that you don’t over do it or they will not want their nourishing food.
Litter tray In the first instance make sure that you place this where they can see it and keep it in the same place to begin with to avoid accidents (do not place it too close to their food). Your kitten is fully house trained but as with children accidents may happen. Do not chastise them but pop them gently into the litter tray to show them where they should have gone. Clean it regularly as they may reject a dirty litter tray.
Again they are used to a variety of litters and you may wish to experiment to see which suits you all best. For the adult cats, I use a litter called "World’s Best Cat Litter (extra strength)". It is expensive but lasts a long time and is bio-degradable, the kittens use it too (it can be purchased online). I have stopped putting a polythene liner in the tray as they scratch holes in it when they are covering their deposits and it is then difficult to dispose of.
Washing and cleaning The kittens already wash themselves and enjoy a gentle brush and have become used to this. Continue to do this to ensure that as their hair grows it does not become knotted. If it does get knotted tease the knot gently to remove it without pulling on the skin.
Immunisation (vaccination) The kittens have been immunised against cat flu and enteritis and their injection(s) date is on their vaccination card. Your kitten is not fully protected until 14 days after the second injection and should not go outside (if you have also opted for the leukaemia immunisation before they leave me the same applies).
Worming Your kitten has been wormed with Milbemax (see front of vaccination form for last treatment). Your vet will advise you on when and how to worm them and why regular worming is important.
Flea Treatment Your kitten has been treated with Frontline (see front of vaccination form for last treatment). Your vet will advise you on when and how to treat them and why regular flea treatment is important.
Insurance Your kitten is insured with Petplan for four weeks. You may wish to continue with this (or an alternative company) for peace of mind particularly for the first year. If your kitten needed treatment before coming to you further episodes of a similar nature may be excluded from the policy, this will be written on your “Kitten Sale Agreement” form.
Registration with the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) Your kitten is registered with GCCF (telephone number 01278 427575) as a pet on the non-active register and so you are not able to breed from them. If I have not received the registration form before your kitten leaves I will forward it to you. You will have a copy of the mating certificate and as soon as I receive confirmation from your vet in writing that your kitten has been neutered (this is also a condition of the owner of the sire) I will forward the certificate of pedigree to you.
Visiting the vet You may wish to take your kitten to the vet to say hello (if you kitten has not had a full course of injections you will need to discuss this with your vet anyway). If you have not already opted for the leukaemia injection you may also wish to discuss having this and when their annual injection will be due. It would also be a good time to discuss when you can have them neutered which is usually between 5 and 6 months. You may also wish to have them microchipped,
Good luck and happy days with your kitten I can not guarantee perfection but I hope you enjoy them as much as I have. Please contact me if you have any concerns or if you wish to increase your family.
With best wishes to you all Liz Corrigan
Reading “list”: RSPCA Complete Cat Care Manual by Andrew Edney, published by Dorling Kindersley (DK)
Final caring for your kitten version 7- 3 of 3 – 261011
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